A Year of Living…….

By Jessica Kerr s25
University of New South Wales

While in Jogjakarta with ACICIS in 2007 Jessica Kerr wrote a blog for her family and friends to keep track of her life with Indonesia. On this page are some extracts from her blog. The complete blog is at http://myindonesianadventure.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2007-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&updated-max=2008-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=20

August

When we arrived in Solo we had to make sure we got the correct immigration stamp for our visa. According to the information book we were given, that meant not going through the tourist line. So we stood in the line for 'Indonesian Citizens'. Ironically, for the first time in a while the tourist queue was the shortest, whilst the citizens line moved at snails pace. As we waited, plenty of friendly people came over with big smiles trying to direct us into the tourist line, as we evidently were lost and confused. We just smiled and tried to explain that we already had a visa, although I think only one woman actually understood that we weren't idiots! Eventually we did end up with the correct immigration stamp, so that was the biggest worry out of the way.

The last couple of days I’ve had my orientation program for ACICIS. It’s been good to get to know some of the other people from Australia who are studying here. The day that we moved into the ACICIS provided accommodation was really exhausting. In the morning, we went in search of a place that sold phone credit. We wandered unsuccessfully around for about 20 minutes before we finally gave up and headed back to our hotel. On our way back we found a credit place that turned out to be incredibly close to our hotel, just on the other side of the road. At first we walked past the store (that looked like an art workshop) because we weren’t sure if the sign for phone credit was attached to that one or the one next to it. We hovered hesitantly and were about to give up when the owner dragged us in, assuring us he sold credit. He began to fill out all the forms and we were just about to pay, when he decided to tell us about his art philosophies. At first it was really interesting hearing his ideas (and trying to understand them), but 40 minutes later I was utterly exhausted from trying to keep up. So what was supposed to take 3 minutes ended up turning into a mini lecture complete with white gown, song-like chanting and the promise that we would become “princesses” if we became his representatives in Australia!

So far we’ve done through all the immigration procedures (including being fingerprinted and profiled by the police) and we’ve done our placement test. Yesterday we went looking for accommodation with our Indonesian buddies. It was actually harder than I was expecting. We looked at heaps of places, but so many of the nice ones were already full (it’s the start of a new year so all the Indonesian students have been getting accommodation for the last few weeks).

After spending several hours looking we gave up and went to the mall (which seems bigger than anything in Australia – HUGE) But as we were sitting there I got a bit worried that I wouldn’t find something, which was stupid considering that we had all day today to look for one. But to make myself feel better I went back to the first place I looked at and put a deposit on it. The more I think about it the more I like it – it has its own bathroom with a western toilet (but I don’t think there’s a shower), a queen bed, bar fridge, fan, desk and wardrobe. The Ibu Kos (owner) seems really friendly, and it’s in a central position in a gang (lane) off the main road (Jl. Kaliurang). The only downside is that another Aussie is staying there. But I don’t think we’re going to be in each other’s pockets, so it shouldn’t be a problem.

I've been in my kos for 3 nights now. I really love it actually. My room is really big, and not too hot. Even the bak mandi (Indonesian 'shower') is great - saves a tonne of water, and it's quite refreshing once you get over the initial shock of pouring cold water down your back! The owner of my kos is absolutely brilliant! She is so welcoming and makes you feel part of her family. I haven't had a chance to meet all of my kos mates yet -I think there's around 15 other girls, but everyone comes and goes all the time (including me!). From what I've gathered though, they come from all over the archipelago.

Since moving into my kos I've been slowly easing my way into full on Indonesian life. Though to be honest I’m sick of paying lots of money (by Indonesian standards) for taxis and food. I'm ready to get into it a little more, and i can't wait to figure out how the buses work, and where they go! I'm looking forward to getting into a routine when uni starts tomorrow... at 7am!
At the moment my subjects are:

Ethnography of Java
Social and Community history of Java 19-20th century
Javanese for Foreigners
Development of Hinduism and Buddhism
Government and Politics of Southeast Asia.

It is Wednesday and I have officially finished my first week of uni! My classes have been a mixed bunch. My first class was The Development of Hinduism and Buddhism. There were 5 ACICIS students in the class, and we all turned up to uni half an hour early, paranoid that we would not be able to find the room and hence be late. No need to worry. We were the first to arrive. We sat there... and sat there... and sat there. Occasionally a student would stick their head in, or walk past, but no one would come in. 20 minutes after the class was due to start we started to wonder if any one was going to show at all - apparently its not that uncommon for the lecturer not to show, especially on the first week, especially at 7.00 on a Monday morning (yes, 7.00). We could see a group of people congregating outside the room and began to worry that we weren't actually supposed to be in the room until the lecturer showed up. So we sat there nervously, convinced that we were disrespecting the lecturer (who was by then 25 mins late anyway). But then at 7.30 everyone suddenly came in, followed by the lecturer. My first class was intense to say the least. The guy sat up the front with the microphone and just talked and talked. Luckily for me I had studied some similar stuff before, and could essentially understand the gist of what he was saying. Unfortunately he didn't talk particularly clearly.

To fill in a 5 1/2 hour gap before my next class, i decided to sit in on grammar. I have since enrolled. It is a bit easy to be honest, but it was nice to be able to understand everything that was going on. My other classes since then seem to have got better, so perhaps it just took a few tries to get used to having unmodified Indonesian fired at me at rapid pace! It's quite satisfying to be able to sit in a class and understand most of what is going on, even if it is just a little scary. The classes I did by myself were a little intimidating at first, but there is always at least one person that will want to come and chat, and get your phone number. The one thing that is getting to me about uni over here is the lack of information about the courses. For most of them there is no course outline or set text, or if there is there is only one copy and you have to know which student is in charge of photocopying! Plus I don't really know what my assessments are! I think the best plan of attack is just to relax and get used to it.

Last night I went with a group of people to watch a performance of the Ramayana dance at the open air theatre at Prambanan temple. It was really amazing to see the temples strikingly lit against the dark night sky. Its just one of those things you can't capture in a photo (though I tried!) The dance itself had been obviously modified for a tourist audience, although it was still enjoyable (and colourful). The stage was huge, so the poor women in their tight sarongs looked quite amusing trying to quickly shuffle into the middle of it before the next phrasing began!

September

I have finally braved the Yogyakartan bus system. I still have absolutely no idea where the buses actually go, but I know which one to get on to get to uni, and which ones to get to Malioboro (though I’m not sure where it leaves from exactly...) Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be anywhere where all the routes are written down, so I think I'll just have to rely on word of mouth plus trial and error. The buses don’t operate to a timetable - you just have to wait on the side of the road until you see the bus that you want. When it comes by you just flag it down and jump on as it slows down. Im still not sure exactly what the deal is with the bus fare - no one asks for an exact amount, you just seem to have to guess. It seems that Rp2000 for a shortish journey is ok. When its time to get off you just have to stand up and hope that they slow down and move over enough that you don’t have to jump into a second lane of traffic! Or else just yell at the driver to stop. Most of the buses here are of questionable roadworthiness. I always try to tread lightly so that I don’t put a foot through the rusty floor, and to avoid the windows (often with no glass) so if we stop suddenly I wont be thrown from the bus.

Today was the start of Ramadan. Having decided to do at least one day of fasting, I got up at 3am with the rest of the girls in my kos to eat breakfast. They all nearly fell off their seats when I emerged bleary eyed from my room, not quite being able to comprehend why I wanted to get up. It really wasn’t so bad and it was brilliant breaking the fast at the end of the day. Ramadan hasn’t really changed anything too much around here, although at about 1pm you can actually cross the road without fearing for you life because everyone is sleeping! At the end of the day, around the time of the evening prayer the foot paths are packed with little stalls selling sweet drinks, fried snacks and young coconut juice for people to break the fast with – it's really quite a party atmosphere!

October

The last couple of weeks I've had a number of experiences in and around Yogya that have let me see things that you just don't get to see as a tourist. Among them:

I finally got on a back of a motorbike (!) I have since been a passenger several times, each time trying to put as much 'protective' clothing on as possible. Having said that I have ridden: in thongs, in short sleeves, in a helmet that was much too big, though not all at the same time. Sometimes you've just got to get on.

I've been visiting the Yayasan Sayap Ibu, an orphanage for newborns to six year olds. The kids are all beautiful and are starting to warm to the bules (whities) in their midst. Yesterday I also went to visit the wing of the YSI for disabled kids. I found this quite heartbreaking - some of the kids are really ill, and I couldn't help but wonder what the future had in store for them. It was heartening to see how many visitors they had though, and one little girl blew us kisses as we rode off.

I've also been going to nongkrong (hang out) with some of my new friends - this can involve all sorts of things - motorbike rides, coffee, card games, movies, going to the mall. Either way its heaps of fun and everyone gets a laugh out of me trying to learn slang!

Finally, I have experienced the excellent academic culture of Indonesia, where the lecturer of one subject has managed to turn up once in 6 weeks. Frustrating, but I guess its best to just go with the flow.

November

Last week I had my mid semester exams. The first, for Hinduism/Buddhism was actually supposed to be on the previous week, but because the lecturer was on holidays/ on a project/ too lazy/ still asleep (take your pick) it was postponed. All the exams went ok – I was allowed to use dictionaries and the exams were only short, so language wasn’t too much of a problem.
The rainy season has well and truly arrived. Yesterday there was a huge and destructive storm. It began around 2pm with huge cracks of thunder and lightning, followed by rain so heavy you couldn’t see more than a few meters in to it. It rained solidly for not quite an hour. This may not seem that long, but the volume of water that poured out of the sky was enormous. I had to walk to one of my classes through rivers of water, ankle deep flooded roads and around courtyards that had turned into swimming pools. Most of the time there was no way around the floods – they went from wall to wall. On my way home my feet were slipping around in my (cheap) shoes and they both broke, so I had to walk some of the way barefoot. Needless to say I chose to walk through the mud rather than through the murky pools of water. Besides all the flooding the storm had partially knocked over a huge Yamaha sign on one of the main roads, causing all the traffic to be diverted through the back roads. Most annoyingly however the entire electricity grid around my house was knocked out (again), leaving all my area without power from mid afternoon until nearly 9 that night!

On Sunday I went with a few friends to the breakfast markets at uni. I’ve been meaning to go for ages but have never seemed to get around to it. It was brilliant. There were heaps of stores selling little trinkets and clothes, and even more set up with straw mats selling food. The stalls stretched right along 2 of the main roads within the uni and the area was packed with people wandering around, eating and sipping on fresh juices. The choice of places to eat was seemingly endless, but in the end we settled on a busy one (usually a good indication that the food is safe and/or tasty). While we were eating we were approached by more people asking for money than usual. There were the usual suspects – people on their guitars singing with various degrees of skill, women with their children, but there were also some that I hadn’t come across before, like the woman who had a microphone and speaker strapped to her body (so you just couldn’t ignore her) and the group of three transvestites who may or may not have sung.

Last Friday I had the first of two Indonesian cooking classes. It was awesome, though unbearably hot with all the pans on the boil and only one measly fan to push the air around. The class only had about 10 people which meant we all got to have a turn pounding spice pastes, extracting fresh coconut milk, peeling garlic, stirring etc. We made beef rendang, pecel (leafy vegies with peanut sauce) and fried tempe. They all tasted amazing and I can wait to get home and try to recreate them! The only problem was the class ran more than half an hour overtime, meaning I just had time to shovel down the food before having to run off to the bus office to get the bus to Semarang.

December

The realisation that I now only have less than 2 weeks left living in my Kos in Yogya has prompted me to contemplate my kos experience.

1. My room
My room is by far the biggest room I have seen. Whilst the average kos room in Yogya would probably be only big enough to fit 3 single beds, mine would fit at least 8. However whilst this provides the opportunity for me to run up and down the room should I feel the inclination to do so.

2. My pets
I have never been an animal person, but since moving to Indonesia I have managed to collect a number of in-room guests including: cicaks (little lizard/geckos), mozzies (though thankfully not too many) and cockroaches. My kos is home to a number of other animals including: cats (that scream in the middle of the night and enjoy running on the roof) and 'hamsters' (I use the term lightly as I remain convinced they are actually mice). I am thankful that I didn’t have the joy of having a pet RAT like Sarah.

3. Noises
My kos can be a noisy place. As of late I have enjoyed waking up to the strains of Christmas carols emanating from the room in front of mine...at 6am. Girls become obsessed with certain Indonesian pop songs and thus proceed to play them at full volume all the time, driving me to the brink of tears. I also enjoy the rhythmic beat of mangos falling from the tree on to my roof, the pattering of the kos kids running around and the call to prayer 5 times a day. Luckily I am used to most of them and can usually sleep through them.

4. Living in a Kos
Has been a great experience. The family that own my Kos live in an attached house, so Ive had an opportunity to have a bit of a homestay experience as well. My Ibu Kos has made me feel so welcome and often pops round to my room with a little cake or drink. There’s a lovely atmosphere in the kos - there is always someone sitting around in the communal area who wants to have a chat, and the girls are an endless source of information. Hopefully I'll be able to find a similar kos in Malang...

As punishment for the earlier comment of "at least I don’t have a RAT", I now have a rat in my room. It was running around last night. I managed to get it out the door, but im sure it can get back in if it wants to. In fact, there may have been TWO of them. Either that or just one really speedy one. Im only there for 10 more days so im just going to pretend i never saw it...or them.

On Thursday it was Idul Adha, a day where Muslims who can afford it buy a goat or cow, slaughter it and then share the meat with people less fortunate than they are. We heard there would be a ceremony down at the Kraton, so we decided to go along, hoping that we wouldn't have to watch any animal sacrifices. Turns out we got lucky. To start there was a parade of the Sultan's soldiers. Each regiment had a different uniform, song and marching style. They were followed by the Sultan's brother and then three big gunungan. Gunungan are mountains of food that are said to bring good luck if you eat part of it. The whole parade marched out of the Kraton to the nearby mosque, where after a short time the gunungan were put down and everyone jumped on them. It was crazy! People were stomping all over everyone else, climbing up the gunungan, throwing food into the air, screaming. It was awesome. Emma and I probably could’ve jumped in there and grabbed some but we decided to stay back, and managed to grab some scraps off the ground.