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Australian Consortium for In-Country Indonesian Studies

Emails home: Wendy

... 2 September 2003

Well I certainly didn't need to bring an alarm clock with me. The system as it works in the house where we have been accommodated by the Uni for the last few days works like this. There is the Alarm, with 5 snooze controls. First there is a rooster which has obviously been imported from Australia. How do I know this? Well he starts crowing at 4am, which is actually 7am in OZ (the correct time). 2. This upsets the frogs, who by the way seem to be the party animals around here and never get to bed before midnight. 3. Just as the frogs begin to quieten down the man at the local mosque starts chanting, calling every one to come and pray at 4.30 in the morning. I did his bidding and prayed like hell that he would shut up and I could get back to sleep. 4. Unfortunately all the praying and chanting wakes up the birds. BUT WAIT! This is not necessarily a bad thing because when the birds come out the frogs disappear. 5. Then just as you start to get back to sleep, the street vendors start walking around with their carts on wheels, with their bells and chimes. For a small charge you can get freshly cooked porridge topped liberally with tomato sauce and chilli on top. Just the pick-me-up one needs after a restless morning. But then, just as you are thinking that surely now you can get back to sleep the first of the Garuda Airways aircraft start to land (as luck would have it) in your back yard. But hey! The best part of the day is the cold of the morning. And all this has been set up so you can't possibly miss it.

ACICIS students Eileen Stelmach (left) and Wendy McNab (right)... 12 September 2003

I went for a becak ride around town. I was nervous about getting on. I could just see the rider being catapulted over the top of the seat as soon as I sat down, as he was half my size and weight. But between the two of us we worked out a system of counter weights and managed quite well. That is of course if you ignore the fact that he seemed to like going the wrong way down the street. I always seemed to be facing 100 motorbikes and sundry cars head on. The traffic is just amazing. No one seems to get angry. They all just give way to everyone. U turn in the middle of busy road. Not a problem. On Thursday after class one of the younger girls took me for a ride to a large supermarket the other side of town. If I thought becaks were exciting, its nothing compared to being on the back of a motorbike. What an absolute buzz. I think I am becoming an adrenalin junkie. I don't know how the local women sit sidesaddle. With my overhang, its too difficult trying to keep the centre of gravity, to sit sidesaddle.

Feedback... 26 September 2003

I am mastering the bus system here. It's a bargain at only 1000 Rp (20cents) per trip. I'm just very careful with my bag and carry most of my money in a money belt if I know I am going to use a bus. I love the way the streets come alive at night with all the warungs and street vendors with their mobile wares. Each one tapping the plate with a spoon, or with bells or the guy on the bike selling ice cream with the Happy birthday song playing. I had seen around the streets a guy on a bike with thin sheets of rubber on the back and realised today from his chant that he was calling out "sepatu". He's the one who re soles your shoes. I love their ingenuity.

October in Yogya... 4 October 2003

On Friday a group of 5 of us arranged a car and driver. We were picked up at 4.30 in the morning and drove to the Borobudur Temple, a Buddhist temple about 45 km from here. The idea was to view the temple at sunrise, however it was very overcast and had rained part of the way there so our efforts were in vain for the sunrise. We spent 3 hours at the temple, which is just the most amazing structure. Built in about 600 ad and restored in the late 1960s.

A lot of school students studying English gather there with the sole aim to latch onto English-speaking tourists so that they can practice their English. So the whole time we were there we were being approached. They very politely come up to you and say "May I introduce myself please, my name is ........ and I would like to speak English to you." I am sure we would have seen the temple in half the time had we not stopped to chat. You do get a bit bored with being asked the same questions time and time again. Where are you from? What do you think of my country? How long have you been here? etc etc. As their English was limited as is my Indonesian I was restricted to basic topics.

There was a group of students from an Islamic high school there so I was asking the girls about wearing the Jilbab (headscarf). They explained that it was school rules that they must wear it. However privately it is their choice. The wearing of the headscarf is a sign of the level of commitment to the religion. One girl I met who is a uni student was explaining that she does not wear it as she and her parents don't feel that she is religious enough. She will only wear it when she chooses. It seems to depend on the family though. I have seen children of only 5 or 6 wearing it. Other families wait until the girl has reached puberty and others have a more open opinion and leave it up to the person to decide for themselves. Mostly it's just the headscarf that is worn here but there are some who wear the whole gown with only their eyes showing but these are in the minority here.

Gone Troppo… 3 November 2003

I think the tropical heat must be getting to me as I now find that my main source of amusement/entertainment comes from my observance of everyday life and procedures here. The other day I went into a stationery store to purchase a 5-cent eraser. Having made my selection from the counter top I was approached by the first young lady who confirmed the price and that I only wanted to buy one article. She then handed this to the second girl behind the counter who wrote out 2 separate dockets. (no carbon paper here). I was then handed the docket and instructed to pay at the cashier's desk, while the first girl took the eraser and the other docket to desk. I handed the docket along with my money to the 3rd girl who entered it into the till stamped the first docket and stapled the till receipt and handed it to the 4th girl who stamped the docket and the register receipt and handed me the change and handed the dockets on to the 5th girl who stamped the dockets, matched it with the article in her basket and efficiently put it in a plastic bag. So 5 cents and 5 people later I had my purchase. Efficiency Plus.

With such sources of amusement I now am wondering if I have Gone Troppo.

What the...?... 14 November 2003

Just 5 min walk from home here is a canal about 7 ft wide. On my journey to Uni I follow a path that tracks the canal for a bout 15 min, or if I go to the orphanage about 30 min in the other direction. Spending so much time along this pathway give me a lot of opportunity to observe the canal's contents. One of my mind games is "Spot the Floater". Identify Animal, Vegetable or Plastic bag"!! As you can imagine all manner of things can be spotted. Its at its most exciting after heavy rain in the hills.

This last week, however has seen a different type of amusement as one section of the canal is currently being repaired and they have dug a parallel trench for about 100ft. As you can imagine this supplies a lot of entertainment for the locals and with my "When in Rome" attitude I stand with my fellow onlookers and observe the workers. One lot taking dirt out of the trench in 2 buckets suspended from a bamboo pole across the shoulders behind the neck, the other men taking cement into the trench in 5 buckets hung on a bamboo pole sitting on the shoulders of 2 men, one walking in front of the other. As you can imagine I was just busting to tell them about an invention called the "wheel barrow".

Idul Fitri Holiday... 27 November 2003

I went on a sightseeing trip to Kaliurang, which is a small mountainside resort, popular with the locals due to the fact that it is always several degrees cooler than Yogya. I caught a mini bus called a Colt from Yogya up there. This is a 12 seater mini bus that seats 15 people. The advantage of this lack of leg room being that for the one-hour journey you get to rest your chin on your knees. Also being packed in like sardines means that you don't get thrown around so much when the bus turns corners or hits potholes.

I noticed also that, like the city buses, several non-essential items had been extracted from the bus. No side door. Well this saves time having to open and shut it every time someone wants to get on or off. An added feature with this also is that it allows the natural cooling of the vehicle and means that air con in the vehicle is not necessary. No Dash Board. Well they don't seem to worry about speed limits here so a speedo is not required. No clock is needed either as everything runs on Indonesian time. The timetable arrangement with buses here is that they arrive when they get there and they depart when they leave. You see, that way they never run late.

Another non-essential item seems to be 3rd and 4th gear. Every thing can be done in first or second. Also the parking brake. Just angle park into the curb to stop the bus rolling back or if there is no curb you can use the rock under the back seat and the piece of wood chocking up the drivers seat. Both work a treat. Another item that was obviously an optional extra that was not opted for was windscreen wipers. Never mind. It didn't rain the whole way.