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Emails home: Greta

Still sweating in Yogya... 20 September 2001

Well, it's been a month already and I really don't know where that time has gone. I really do feel at home here and the lifestyle is very comfortable and much slower in pace than at home. My days seem to float away through a mixture of classes, eating at the street stalls, sitting around talking to people, riding my bicycle around and trying to avoid scary looking roosters, midday sun and small grotty children.

TRAFFIC LAWS 101

Life is never dull on the campus of Gadjah Mada University in YogyakartaThe busy roads here are a whole class in themselves. The black smog emitted by many of the vehicles is like nothing I have ever seen in Australia - I might as well take up smoking now. I am seriously considering buying a face mask to give my lungs some chance to avoid cancer. The traffic is just mad, if only I could understand the road rules. It seems that traffic lights are for street decoration, although randomly once in a while they are obeyed -how am I supposed to know when to obey them?? People swerve all over the road, drive on the wrong side (there are concrete pillars along the footpaths to stop people driving on the footpath!!) , overtake any old how and toot their horns all the time (maybe there's a prize for maximum toots per second?!!). It really is madness, but I am gradually beginning to think that there might be some logic in there somewhere, although not very much... something along the lines of 'might is right' and 'nice car is always right' and 'becak is wrong'. Silly foreigner on bike wearing a funny looking helmet (unheard of!) - very strange and to be avoided (helmets are only worn on motorbikes and even then most of them have the protective qualities of an ice cream container?!). I've noticed that people leave me lots of room and I'm glad of it, I need it!

I have been using motorbikes more and more and really getting an addiction there - it's fun! It is a great way to experience life in Indonesia: swishing past street stalls, night lights, all manner of housing, shops and people. There's also that thrill of adventure and danger (don't stress mum!).

The cocktail of scents is really revealing, there's the smell of rotting food and plants, kretek cigarettes (a favourite smell), the stench of heavily polluted rivers and streams (a squillion times worse than the Yarra River), the smell of sate cooking by the road and the smell of tropical mould on the walls and finally the smell of pizza at pizza hut (mmmmm... just a little bit of western sin goes a long way?!). I think smells are one of my favourite things about Indonesia.

Bikie girl... 30 September 2001

I like to think I'm tough, really tough.... and now I feel even tougher with my new motorbike. It's so much fun cruising around whenever and wherever I like in Yogja and it's easy to drive b/c there's no clutch. Apparently it's a girly bike and is called a bebek (duck) in Indonesian - but it does give me some freedom and independence which I really want at the moment. It is also the only way to get around without getting up big dirty stinky sweat patches on your clothes and its really cheap (like about $1 AUD for a tank of petrol??!) And no, Clare, I'm not going back on all my greenie philosophy... just bending the rules a little, it's better than a car??! Plus, it really sucks riding a bike around in the Yogja heat.

How to take an exam... 25 October 2001

I just had the most amazing exam experience ever.... in fact, damn it, I enjoyed it?!!! It is quite a story so here goes... Tom (Greta's boyfriend), who still has his arm in a sling, can't do his exams because it is his writing arm which is broken (not a bad excuse if I do say so), so he has rescheduled most of them. However, the law faculty maintained that he would still have to do the exam at the same time as everyone else. (are law faculties tight the world over??) They told him he would sit in an office with a friend (yep, this old bunny) who would write out what he wanted to say, quite an unusual concept in the first place!

So the exam came around today and we went to the office, but it was not what I expected. I thought we'd be placed in a nice quiet room, maybe with a supervisor, but instead we sat at a long table in the main office with about 10 or more employees talking loudly, working and smoking (yes, that anti-smoking law hasn't come here yet) and with the radio blaring to top it off. Not only was it the main law office, but it is the office where students come to enrol, so it was really noisy, smoky and mad.... hardly ideal conditions. Then came lunch time.... and it only got more congested and there was a big lunch delivery (smelt good) and we continued to work away right through the smoke and the chatter, occasionally moving our chairs so people could get past! I really wanted to laugh, but I was too busy trying to hear what Tom wanted me to write?!!

It was a real contrast to any exam in Australia and I think I will have to vow never to complain about the clock which ticks a little too loudly or the person in front of me who writes noisily - that is nothing in comparison. So for those of you about to sit your end of year exams, just be grateful that you won't have to do them in conditions like that!

Otherwise all is well, although I'm really sick of the tropical downpours. It is really, really wet.

Fame, Fortune and Fanciful Follies... 12 November 2001

Well, I know this will mean absolutely nothing to many of you stupidissimo ignoramuses.... but I went backstage at the "Dewa" concert in Solo yesterday, and got my photo with the drummer (extremely sexy and possibly not taken) and the band creator, song writer etc. and was interviewed for TV (let's hope it is not aired though because I hadn't brushed my hair, had a severe tropical sheen and giggled teenage groupy style). For those of you who are ignorant of the Indonesian Pop Scene (for christ's sake get with the groove!?) Dewa just happens to be the most well know Indonesian band and hot to trot. I have had a few of their CDs for a few years now and of course now I will be forced to go and buy the compulsory Dewa paraphernalia and the other CDs. My friend Fran, who didn't even know anything about Dewa, was given... yes given (no begging or sexual favours involved) two private mobile phone numbers, home address and home phone number of the drummer, Mr spunky Tyo and the songwriter.... I am so insanely jealous (sorry Tom-only window shopping!). Anyway, the point is that I am now an even madder Dewa fan and possibly also a TV celebrity. Moral to the story: There is nothing like a bit of bule (foreign) status to get you places!!!